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This is a discussion on My first Oil change in the Open Discussion & Chit-chat forum
Greetings ..I'm new here and a new owner of an 03 X type 3.0L...If this subject has been covered before, I apologize in advance... I ...

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    My first Oil change

    Greetings ..I'm new here and a new owner of an 03 X type 3.0L...If this subject has been covered before, I apologize in advance...

    I am a very anal person when it comes to car care...I know Jag gives free 10,000 mile oil changes till 40k, or 50k,

    But I don't believe in waiting that long on oil changes especialy every 10k on conventional oils (5w30)..I'm going to change mine around every 5000 miles to be safe....My question is this; Has anyone used Synthetic or the blended synthetic of the Castrol brand (5w30)?...Will it harm the engine's seals, etc.?..The Owners Manual makes no specific reference to SYNTHETICS, but on the other hand, it doesn't say NOT TO either...Please let me know what the general feeling is on this and I'll go from there...

    Thanks in advance
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

    Land Rover Freelander

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    How do you post pictures?..I tryed using the option below, but nothing come up
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

    Land Rover Freelander

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    Old Hillbilly Connie's Avatar
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    I don't think the subject has been covered. Actually you have left me throughly
    confused. I'm often confused.  

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    Sorry about that Connie..I was hoping that there maybe a few Do IT YOURSELFERS here
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

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    I'm trying to post a picture..if nothing happens...sorry about the waste of time...
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

    Land Rover Freelander

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    Old Hillbilly Connie's Avatar
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    Your second post was clear and to the point. Your first post was confusing to me.

    The only way I have ever been able to post a picture is to link to it from my website.

    I'm sure there is a better way but someone else will have to give
    you the instructions.

    Wish I could be of more help.

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    Ok ... this hapens from time to time but this is the Jaguar Technologies website not the Jaguar Cars site!

    You want www.jaguar.com

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    Yeah, I know a LOT! Vin DSL's Avatar
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    Re: My first Oil change

    Originally posted by Emerald
    ...My question is this; Has anyone used Synthetic or the blended synthetic of the Castrol brand (5w30)?...Will it harm the engine's seals, etc.?..The Owners Manual makes no specific reference to SYNTHETICS, but on the other hand, it doesn't say NOT TO either...Please let me know what the general feeling is on this and I'll go from there...

    Thanks in advance
    Castrol Syntec synthetic oil sucks! It isn't actually synthetic oil at all. It's hydrocracked mineral oil. Basically you will be paying synthetic motor oil prices for non-synthetic oil, i.e. it's a total rip-off. Their blended oils are an even worse value.

    What you need is Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil. It's a true synthetic and it has high pressure additives added at the factory now. For the price, you can't beat it.

    Don't worry about the seals. They will be fine. Stick with whatever weight the factory recommends, and change it as often as you wish. Just don't go PAST their recommended change interval[s]...
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    Why bother to change your own oil? If you can afford a Jaguar, have someone else do it! Or are you just bored?

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    Thanks for all the replies...Yes I like to do my own oil changes...As I pointed out, I'm an Anal sort and enjoy doing it myself...To make sure the job is done right and also to explore the undercarrige for any problems...I get involved with my cars...

    I've Castrol religiously in My Benz and Land Rover without any problems...If Castrol is guilty of marketing hype of being pure synthetic...Then that is where you are correct..But the oil itself is excellent and will meet or exceed any other synthetic brands out there...All I was concerned about is; Would any synthetics or blended synthetics harm the engine in anyway?


    Ps...Not to brag, but I purchased this British Green 03 X type, 3.0 L, with ALL the Possible options, with 2800 miles on the clock from an English Gent, moving back to the UK and he sold it to me for $25,000...This was a deal of a life time It had never been driven in the rain or at night as the old boy was blind in one eye...He had only driven it when he was here in the states (Florida) while on vaction and it has been in his garage since June till this December..
    Last edited by Emerald; 12-22-2003 at 04:08 PM.
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

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    cool

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    Yeah, I know a LOT! Vin DSL's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Emerald
    Thanks for all the replies... Mobile 1 doesn't have a 5w30 that I know of... All I was concerned about is; Would any synthetics or blended synthetics harm the engine in anyway?
    Well, my friend, this must be your lucky day...

    As fate would have it, I'm an automotive expert, on top of everything else. And, my speciality is lubricants/filters. Hahahaha! I tell ya - some ppl have all the luck, no?

    Here's a picture I used once, to prove that I have tested sucky Mobil 1 oil filters. Please note the oil sitting next to it on my workshelf...



    You can use ANY grade of Mobil 1 synthetic oil, anywhere in North America. The 'thickest' grade Mobil 1 made flows all the way down to -50 deg F. However, you should probably stick with whatever the manufacturer recommends.

    Engines, these days, are designed to run very 'thin' oil for improved gas economy. They design them with wide lower end bearing surfaces and small oil galleries. The problem you face by running too 'thick' a weight is oil starvation when you first start your motor.

    As far as mixing synthetic oil with regular ol' dinosaur juice goes --- this is not a problem. You can run synthetic oil one change, regular oil the next, mix them 50-50 if you're a cheap bastard, whatever. It will NOT hurt a thing.

    The problem with mixing is when you start mixing synthetic oils together. That's what will kill your motor. Every oil manufacturer uses a different chemistry and MANY of them will NOT mix well together. If, for instance, you make a mistake and decide to try Castrol Syntec, but later you come to your senses and switch to Mobil 1, make sure you run regular motor oil through your engine for an oil change or two before switching. That will get rid of the remnant of Castrol Syntec, which is actually 'cracked' mineral oil, before you stick REAL synthetic oil in your engine. In other words, make sure you 'flush' synthetic oils out of your engine before switching to a different brand of synthetic motor oil.

    Okay, let's leave it at that. I don't lnow if you're even coming back here again...
    Last edited by Vin DSL; 12-22-2003 at 04:11 PM.
    DISCLAIMER Any resemblance between the views expressed above and those of the owners and operators of this system is purely coincidental. Any resemblance between these views and my own are non-deterministic. The existence of Vin DSL is questionable. The existence of views in the absence of anyone to hold them is problematic. The existence of the reader is left as an exercise in the second-order coefficient.

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    Vin...I'm back

    I've heard all that before and you are 100% correct in all counts exept that you have an issue with Castrol Co. and not the oil I'm sure...I know a few other people that feel the same way as you do..I can't say that I blame them either...As I said, I've had excellent service from Castrol Syntec and non syn....So if it works me, why change?...I must apologize for making that statement about Mobile 1 and 5w30...I came across it in the auto supply today as well, as I was buying 7 qts of Castrol Syntec...
    Anyway, I am using genuine Jag filter though..BTW, Are there any K&N air filters on the market yet for these 3.0L engines?
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

    Land Rover Freelander

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    Yeah, I know a LOT! Vin DSL's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Emerald
    I've heard all that before and you are 100% correct in all counts exept that you have an issue with Castrol Co. and not the oil I'm sure... I've had excellent service from Castrol Syntec and non syn....So if it works me, why change?... I am using genuine Jag filter though..BTW, Are there any K&N air filters on the market yet for these 3.0L engines?
    I have nothing, repeat, NOTHING against Castrol. I used their motors oils exclusively for years. I starting using Castrol GTR back in the 60's. It use a great RACING oil. It was a mixture of dinosaur juice and castor bean oil. There was nothing else like it at the time. The problem with it was, it was a REAL RACING oil, meant to be dumped at the end of the racing day. It was NOT meant to be used on street driven cars. But, ppl are stupid and used it in their cars anyway. After a while, the castor bean oil would plug everything up and kill the motor. Was that Castrol's fault? Nope! It was the stupidity of the customer. They didn't know what they were buying, and at the risk of offending you, I would say the same applies to Castrol Syntec.

    Anyway, later, Castrol gave up and starting making GTX, which had what they called "Liquid Tungsten" in it instead of castor bean oil. It's a close second, and I used it for years, on everything, and I still use it, i.e. I'm STILL a Castrol fan...

    Now, getting back to the Castrol Syntec, as much as I love Castrol, they ARE ripping off the public. They are calling Castrol Syntec a synthetic oil when it is not. It's actually regular motor oil that has had the molecules cracked by a high-temperature process. Valvoline, for instance, makes and sells the identical same oil - same process. It's called Valvoline Maxlife. They market it for cars with over 75,000 miles on them. Here's the web site, if you're interested:

    http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ....asp?product=7

    How much does it cost? About $2/qt most places. And, that's what Castrol should be charging. However, it's your car, bro, and your pocketbook...

    On the subject of oil filters, I run and recommend Purolator PureONE filters. To my way of thinking, they are the best. With full flow oil filters, you need something that will filter particles as small as possible, but still be able to flow. Otherwise, the bypass valve is open all the time, sending unfiltered oil through your motor. In other words, it's a compromise of sorts. Purolator has this all figured out with the PureONE. No commonly available filter will clean better than a Purolator PureONE without clogging --- guaranteed! They list for $11.50, but you can usually pick them up at Pep Boys for around half that price.

    If you want something better in a full flow filter design, you'll have to go the CM route, but I don't know if they make one for your ride. Here's their web site:

    http://www.cmfilters.com/

    They are the absolute best full flow oil filter available, at any price! The filter will set you back about 100 bones. The replacement cartridges are about the same as the PureONE MSRP --- $11.50 or so.

    As far as air filters go, all I run is K&N. IMHO, there is K&N, then there is everything else. They are the best --- always have been --- always will be. I don't know about a K&N for your car. I hang with the Honda crowd. When and if they make a 'panel' for your ride, MAKE SURE you oil your K&N a couple of times a year or more. The oil is what does the filtering. A 'dry' K&N won't keep anything out of your motor except leaves, birds, and large rocks.
    DISCLAIMER Any resemblance between the views expressed above and those of the owners and operators of this system is purely coincidental. Any resemblance between these views and my own are non-deterministic. The existence of Vin DSL is questionable. The existence of views in the absence of anyone to hold them is problematic. The existence of the reader is left as an exercise in the second-order coefficient.

    No Guts, No Story! VinDSL © 2010

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    Originally posted by Vin DSL
    [B]I have nothing, repeat, NOTHING against Castrol. the castor bean oil would plug everything up and kill the motor. , and at the risk of offending you, I would say the same applies to Castrol Syntec.



    Now, getting back to the Castrol Syntec, as much as I love Castrol, they ARE ripping off the public. They are calling Castrol Syntec a synthetic oil when it is not. It's actually regular motor oil that has had the molecules cracked by a high-temperature process.
    First point...I seriously doubt that the Syntec will plug anything up as did the racing oil...Land Rover recommends 12,000 miles between oil changes with the stuff (course, only a fool would go that long)...Mercedes, Porsche (pronounced, Poor-sha), BMW, Volvo (not to be confused with a part of the females anatomy), all recommend Castrol Syntec in their engines as well...If they are confident enough to endorse the product for their engines, then I'm satisfied that it will be MORE than exceptable in the Jag's engine.

    Point two...Yes it is a rip off of Castrol to boast that the Syntec is FULL SYNTHETIC...But, as long as it performs as well, or better than true Synthetics...I'm happy!...And it does!

    I have always been leary of using an aftermarket oil filter, as I've heard and seen horror stories about big car makers not honoring the warranty if something should fail in the engine and it had something other than the OEM filter...Factory filter is $12.00+tax, so it's a wash and I'm safe with warranty to boot!

    On the K&N air filter...No doubt about it...the only way to go...Only need to find one now

    BTW--Good discussion
    New to the pride with a 2003 X-type 3.0L

    Land Rover Freelander

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